By Nina Teicholz
Excerpt
For decades liberals championed whole foods, from chef Alice Waters, who pioneered using locally sourced ingredients in her restaurant, to writer Michael Pollan, who famously wrote: “Don’t eat anything your great-great-grandmother wouldn’t recognize as food.”
Places like Brooklyn and Berkeley were hubs for the “slow food” movement. In 2022 President Biden hosted a White House conference on hunger, nutrition and health. In 2009 Barack and Michelle Obama had a date night at Blue Hill, a farm-to-table restaurant. The next year Mrs. Obama championed the Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act.
The tide has shifted. Now Berkeley hippies are joined by “make America healthy again” moms promoting organic foods and rallying for raw milk—and the MAHA movement is leading the charge. Even the fight against ultraprocessed foods, once a cause célèbre of the left, codes red.